Lijiang’s old town is an 800-year-old maze of cobbled lanes, canals and Naxi timber houses that once anchored the Tea Horse Road caravan trade. UNESCO listed it in 1997; tourism arrived at scale soon after, and today it is simultaneously one of China’s most beautiful townscapes and one of its busiest.
The trick is timing: at 7am the lanes belong to Naxi grandmothers and delivery carts; by noon they belong to tour flags and drum shops. Climb Lion Hill for the sea of grey-tiled roofs against Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, then use Lijiang as your base for the quieter villages — Baisha and Shuhe — up the valley.
